Exquisite, remarkably accomplished Italian cuisine in a friendly, living-room setting accounts for the justifiable popularity of Ristorante Fieni's.

The Voorhees restaurant directly across Burnt Mill Road from the Echelon Mall has just passed its five-year anniversary, still serving the same exceptional dishes as when it opened in late November 1995.

Chef Lucio Fieni and his wife, Angela, take obvious pride in their business, housed in a converted ranch-style house that provides a comfortable living-room-like dining experience.

But generous portions of sophisticated dishes are the main attraction. Without exception, every dish sampled on a recent visit was memorable.

A snuggly round loaf of fresh, wonderfully chewy crusted bread with fruity dipping oil came with Italian jardiniere - marinated celery, carrots, button mushrooms, onions, green bell peppers, olives and green beans that refreshed the palate. 

Verdura et gamberi ($8.50) was a mountain of broccoli rabe, cannellini beans, and two large shrimp dressed with garlic and oil.

Calamari Dorati (also $8.50) was an extraordinary version of this popular appetizer - lightly breaded, pillow-soft fried squid with marinara dipping sauce. The serving was enough for at least two hungry diners.

Exceptional soup included with dinner was rich, cheese-touched chicken broth filled with delicate paper-thin ribbons of flat, homemade noodles, tightly coiled for extra texture.

Main courses were just as appealing. Pollo cremolate ($15.95) was three thin slices of pounded chicken breast sauteed with shallots and shiitake mushrooms, bathed in sweet, beautifully balanced cream sauce assertively sparked with cognac.

Lighter-than-air mashed potatoes and crunchy broccoli flowers filled the plate.

Three thin, fork-tender veal medallions sauteed with two jumbo shrimp ($17.95) were sprinkled with chopped tomatoes and coated with sweet, velvet-textured champagne sauce. Extra-firm cappellini was touched with light marinara sauce.

Fabulous ricotta cheesecake ($3.95), generous enough for two, was light, refreshing cake piled atop juicy pineapple and finished with whipped cream dusted with cocoa powder.

The living room looks like that in any private home, with a nonworking fireplace, translucent bowl-shaped sconces on cream-colored walls, gray carpeting, and lace curtains with a maroon valence at the windows.

Tables crowded closely together are prettily set with burgundy cloths with pink overlays, burgundy napkins, a little potted fern for the season, and black, bent-metal chairs with elegant seats.

The restaurant has no liquor license, but patrons may bring their own spirits; most do.