Philadelphia Inquirer

Fine Italian Fare At
One of the Region’s Best
By John V.R. Bull
January 28, 1996


Open: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Mon.-Fri.; dinner 4-10 p.m.
Mon.-Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri., 3-11 p.m. Sat. & Sun.
Price range: Appetizers average $5.50, entrees $14
Credit cards: Major cards
Nonsmoking section: Yes
Facilities for handicapped: Yes
Atmosphere: Home-like

Exceptional Italian cuisine and modest prices account for the instant success of Ristorante Fieni’s, one of South Jersey’s newest -- and finest -- restaurants.

The delightful place, opened Nov. 25 in a converted one-story home on Burnt Mill Road across from the Echelon Mall, is run by Angela and Lucio Fieni. Lucio Fieni was the chef for five years at the splendid San Marco on City Line Avenue in Philadelphia.

Reflective of Chef Fieni’s Abruzzi roots, the menu offers generous portions of subtly sauced delights made from high-quality ingredients. A peaceful, home-like atmosphere and gracious service are the icing on the cake.

Good, crusty Italian bread was served with butter, although I think it would be better with a fruity olive oil.

Verdura e Gamberi ($5.95) was an exceptional appetizer of broccoli di rabe, soft cannellini beans and two jumbo shrimp, all sautéed in garlic and extra virgin olive oil -- a joyous combination of complementary textures and flavors. Baked stuffed clams (also $5.95) were five extraordinarily tender littlenecks topped with onions, bacon, and red and green bell peppers.

Dinners includes either soup or salad, each an excellent choice. Cream of broccoli was a generous portion of wonderfully chunky soup sparked with a few pepper-mill twists. A huge, marvelously complex salad of arugula, frisee, romaine and radicchio was dressed with a refreshing balsamic vinaigrette and finished with grated cheese and cracked peppercorns.

Bistecca e carciofi ($14.50), a terrific main dish, was a fork-tender, medium-rare strip steak with wonderful beef flavors, glazed with cheese and colorfully topped with artichoke hears, red and yellow bell peppers, onions, mushrooms and Italian parsley, and seated in a delicate Marsala sauce.

The oversize plate had room for three large, perfectly steamed Brussels sprouts dusted with white pepper, and slices of roasted potatoes.

Veal dolce vita ($12.95), nearly as good, was three thin, buttery medallions of milk-fed veal sautéed with roasted garlic and red bell pepper strips, topped with an artichoke heart and bathed in a lovely olive-oil-cognac-garlic sauce. Al dente cappellini (angel hair pasta) was sauced with cream-touched, strong flavored marinara made from peeled fresh tomatoes.

Quivering-fresh creme caramel ($3.25) in delicate syrup was a refreshing dessert, the plate prettily decorated with cinnamon. Tiramisu (also $3.25), the only disappointment, was densely textured cake instead of airy lady fingers with an overexuberant dash of Galliano, the too-sweet Italian liqueur.

The modest hut attractive setting is like a friend’s house. My table was in the living room in front of a non-working stone fireplace with a raised hearth. Off-white walls have translucent saucer-shaped sconces and few paintings; gray carpeting hints of green, pink and red flowers.

Tables set alternately with burgundy cloths with pink overlays or pink cloths with burgundy overlays have elegant polished-cotton burgundy napkins, a white vase with real pink carnations and baby’s breath, and black bent-metal chairs with gorgeous green paisley seat covers. Frank Sinatra recordings played in the background.

My waiter was informed, attentive and friendly. The restaurant has no liquor license, but patrons may bring their own spirits.

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