Fabulous dining at Ristorante Fieni's

by Beth D'Addono

For the Daily News

It was 5 o'clock on a rainy Sunday before Christmas. After doing time at miscellaneous malls and shopping centers, what I really needed was some Italian comfort food. My partner agreed, which brought us to Ristorante Fieni's doorstep.

Fieni's, which took over a former single residence on busy Burnt Mill Road three years ago, is a casual, friendly neighborhood restaurant with a well-balanced menu of Italian specialties.

A loaf of crusty Italian bread, accompanied by lightly roasted peppers started our dining experience. For a starter, we tried the vongole casino ($6.95), six tasty cherrystone clams, chopped and mixed with bits of onion, bacon, pepper and bread crumbs. Bresaola all Piemontese ($7.25), stuffed flank steak served over mixed greens with shaved parmesan, sounded equally delicious.

Most of the traditional bases are covered at Fieni's, with the emphasis on freshness and careful preparation. All the pasta is homemade, which sent me directly to the penne contadina ($12.95) for my entree choice. My dining pal chose the vitello alla dolce vita ($14.95), which features veal.

My pasta was just what the doctor ordered. Pinkie-size penne, cooked al dente, came tossed with chopped broccoli rabe and cooked cannellini beans in a garlic and oil sauce. The chef wasn't stingy with the garlic - which this particular Italian patron appreciated. My friend's veal was tasty, two pounded medallions arrived in cognac-flavored roasted garlic sauce, topped with ribbons of roasted peppers and a chunk of artichoke heart. It was served with a side of spaghetti, tossed in a fresh marinara sauce.

A range of pasta, veal, chicken and beef choices offer plenty of options. The cannelloni Abruzzese ($12.95) is homemade crepes filled with roast veal, cheese and herbs and baked in an aurora sauce. Pollo alla valdostana ($13.95) features chicken breasts topped with prosciutto, Fontina cheese and mushrooms in a white wine sauce. Filetto e gamberi ($18.95) is a combo of filet and shrimp in a tomato champagne sauce. Good examples of the chef's versatility and creative reach.

All entrees are served with choice of homemade soup or a tossed or Caesar salad. We had the Caesar, an excellent version of the garlicky favorite.

Our efficient server was nice enough to ask if we wanted our entree orders put in before he placed an order from a large party. He didn't want to rush us, but instead let us make the choice to wait 20 minutes between courses, or not. We did not - and appreciated his consideration.

Although we didn't have room for dessert, we had it anyway - a mammoth portion of apple walnut cake with chocolate chips ($3.75), which tasted like somebody's Aunt Mabel had just baked it.

A word to the wise: we hadn't made a reservation, and consequently earned the worst seat in the house across from the kitchen. Between the constantly swinging door, wait staff traffic and snatches of conversation emanating from the busy kitchen, our meal was less than relaxing. If you want to enjoy your pasta without disruption, make a reservation - and stay away from the dreaded back table.

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